Tyres Explained: The Complete Guide to Choosing the Right Tyres for Your Car
Your tyres are the single most important safety component on your car. They are the only four contact patches connecting your vehicle to the road — each one roughly the size of your palm. Every bit of acceleration, braking, and cornering force goes through those four small patches of rubber. Yet most drivers choose tyres based on price alone, with little understanding of what they are actually buying.
This guide covers everything you need to know about car tyres: how to read the numbers on your sidewall, what types of tyres exist, how tread patterns work, when to replace them, and how to choose the right tyre for your car and driving style — with a focus on Malaysian roads and climate.
How to Read Tyre Sizes
Every tyre has a code on its sidewall that looks something like this: 225/45R18 95Y. Here is what each part means:
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225 — Section width in millimetres. This is the width of the tyre from sidewall to sidewall when mounted on its recommended rim width. A wider tyre has a larger contact patch and generally more grip, but also more rolling resistance and susceptibility to aquaplaning.
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45 — Aspect ratio (profile). This is the sidewall height expressed as a percentage of the section width. So 45% of 225mm = 101.25mm of sidewall height. A lower aspect ratio means a shorter, stiffer sidewall — sharper handling but harsher ride. A higher aspect ratio means more sidewall flex — softer ride but less precise turn-in.
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R — Radial construction. Nearly all modern car tyres are radial. The "R" indicates the internal ply cords run radially (perpendicular to the direction of travel), which gives better flexibility, heat dissipation, and grip. You may occasionally see "ZR" which historically indicated a speed rating above 240km/h, though this notation is less common now.
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18 — Rim diameter in inches. This must match your wheel size exactly. You cannot fit a 17-inch tyre on an 18-inch wheel.
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95 — Load index. This number represents the maximum weight the tyre can carry at its rated speed. 95 = 690kg per tyre. Your replacement tyres must have a load index equal to or higher than the original equipment specification.
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Y — Speed rating. This letter indicates the maximum speed the tyre is designed to sustain safely. Y = 300km/h. You should never fit tyres with a lower speed rating than your car's original specification.
Common Speed Ratings
| Rating | Max Speed | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| T | 190 km/h | Family sedans, economy cars |
| H | 210 km/h | Sporty sedans, mid-range |
| V | 240 km/h | Sports cars, performance sedans |
| W | 270 km/h | High-performance cars |
| Y | 300 km/h | Supercars, high-performance |
| (Y) | 300+ km/h | Hypercars, track-rated |
Common Load Index Values
| Index | Max Load (kg) | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| 85 | 515 | Compact cars |
| 91 | 615 | Mid-size sedans |
| 95 | 690 | Large sedans, small SUVs |
| 100 | 800 | SUVs, crossovers |
| 110 | 1060 | Large SUVs, light trucks |
Plus Sizing: Going Bigger
Many enthusiasts upgrade to larger wheels and need to choose the right tyre size. The golden rule is to keep the overall tyre diameter as close to stock as possible. When you increase rim diameter, you decrease the aspect ratio to compensate.
For example, upgrading from 17-inch to 18-inch wheels on a car with stock 225/50R17 tyres:
- Stock: 225/50R17 — overall diameter ~659mm
- Upgrade: 225/45R18 — overall diameter ~660mm (nearly identical)
- Wrong: 225/50R18 — overall diameter ~685mm (too tall, speedometer will read incorrectly)
A tyre size calculator (freely available online) is essential when changing rim sizes. Keeping the overall diameter within 2-3% of stock ensures your speedometer, ABS, and traction control systems continue to function correctly.
Types of Tyres
Summer Tyres (Performance Tyres)
Summer tyres are designed for warm and dry conditions, using a harder rubber compound that performs optimally above 7°C. They have shallower tread depth, larger tread blocks, and more rubber in contact with the road compared to other tyre types.
Characteristics:
- Best dry grip and cornering performance
- Good wet performance in warm rain (but not the best in standing water)
- Harder compound lasts longer in warm conditions
- Noisy and dangerous below 7°C — the rubber hardens and loses grip
- Typically the tyre of choice for performance cars
In Malaysia: Summer tyres are the default and best choice for most Malaysian drivers. Our tropical climate means temperatures rarely drop below 20°C, which is right in the sweet spot for summer compound performance. Most OEM-fitted tyres on performance cars sold in Malaysia are summer tyres.
All-Season Tyres
All-season tyres use a compound that is softer than summer tyres but firmer than winter tyres, designed to provide acceptable performance across a wide temperature range (roughly -5°C to 40°C). They have deeper tread grooves and more sipes (thin slits in the tread blocks) than summer tyres.
Characteristics:
- Compromise between summer and winter performance
- Acceptable grip in both warm and cool conditions
- Deeper tread helps in light rain and wet roads
- Less precise handling than summer tyres in the dry
- Shorter lifespan in consistently hot climates (the softer compound wears faster)
In Malaysia: All-season tyres are unnecessary for Malaysian conditions. Since we never experience cold temperatures, all-season tyres sacrifice dry-weather performance for cold-weather capability you will never need. If you see all-season tyres being marketed here, understand you are paying for a compromise that gives you no benefit in our climate.
Winter Tyres
Winter tyres use an extremely soft rubber compound with high silica content that remains flexible below 7°C. They have deep tread grooves, dense siping, and tread patterns designed to channel snow and slush.
In Malaysia: You will never need winter tyres. They are mentioned here only for completeness and in case you are shopping overseas or importing a car with winter tyres fitted. Winter tyres on hot Malaysian roads would wear out extremely quickly and provide worse grip than summer tyres — the soft compound would overheat and feel vague.
Ultra-High-Performance (UHP) Tyres
UHP tyres are the pinnacle of road tyre technology. They use aggressive summer compounds with maximum grip, minimal tread depth, large contact patches, and stiff sidewalls for precise handling. They are the tyres fitted to sports cars, supercars, and performance sedans.
Characteristics:
- Maximum dry grip — often approaching semi-slick levels
- Stiff sidewalls for precise turn-in and cornering
- Shallow tread depth (5-6mm vs 7-8mm on standard tyres)
- Shorter lifespan (20,000-40,000 km)
- More expensive
- Louder road noise
- Harsher ride
Brands and examples: Michelin Pilot Sport 4S/5, Bridgestone Potenza Sport, Continental SportContact 7, Pirelli P Zero, Goodyear Eagle F1 SuperSport
In Malaysia: UHP tyres are excellent for Malaysian sports car owners who want maximum grip. Our consistently warm temperatures keep these tyres in their ideal operating window year-round. The main trade-off is ride comfort and tyre noise — important considerations on Malaysia's often rough road surfaces.
Track/Semi-Slick Tyres
Semi-slick tyres (also called R-compound tyres or DOT-approved track tyres) bridge the gap between road tyres and full racing slicks. They have minimal tread pattern, extremely soft compounds, and massive grip — but wear very quickly and are poor in rain.
Characteristics:
- Grip levels 30-50% higher than the best UHP road tyres
- Very limited tread pattern — some have less than 10% of the surface area grooved
- Wear life measured in track sessions, not kilometres
- Dangerous in heavy rain — limited water evacuation
- Heat-sensitive — need to be warmed up to work properly
- Expensive (RM 800-2,500+ per tyre)
In Malaysia: Only for dedicated track days at Sepang International Circuit or Johor Circuit. Not recommended for street use, especially during monsoon season when standing water on roads is common.
Run-Flat Tyres
Run-flat tyres have reinforced sidewalls that can support the car's weight even when the tyre has zero air pressure. They allow you to continue driving at reduced speed (typically up to 80km/h for up to 80km) after a puncture, giving you time to reach a workshop.
Characteristics:
- No need for a spare tyre (many BMWs and MINI come standard with run-flats)
- Reinforced sidewalls make the ride noticeably harsher
- More expensive than equivalent standard tyres (20-40% premium)
- Cannot be repaired as easily — many workshops refuse to patch run-flat tyres
- Heavier than standard tyres, which slightly affects fuel consumption
- Limited selection compared to standard tyres
Run-flat vs Standard:
| Factor | Run-Flat | Standard |
|---|---|---|
| Puncture safety | Drive to workshop | Stop immediately |
| Ride comfort | Harsher | Softer |
| Cost | RM 500-2,000+ each | RM 200-1,500+ each |
| Weight | 10-15% heavier | Lighter |
| Repairability | Limited | Easily patched |
| Spare tyre needed | No | Yes (or tyre repair kit) |
| Availability | Limited | Wide selection |
In Malaysia: Many BMW and MINI owners switch from run-flat to standard tyres when it is time to replace, specifically because the ride quality improvement is so significant on Malaysian roads. If you do switch, you will need to carry a spare tyre or tyre repair kit.
Tread Patterns Explained
The tread pattern on a tyre is not decorative — it is engineered to manage water evacuation, noise, grip, and wear. There are three main tread pattern categories.
Symmetrical Tread
The tread pattern is identical on both halves of the tyre. These tyres can be mounted in any direction and rotated to any position on the car.
Characteristics:
- Quiet and comfortable
- Even wear patterns
- Long lifespan
- Budget-friendly
- Adequate grip for normal driving
Best for: Daily commuters, economy cars, drivers who prioritise comfort and tyre life
Asymmetric Tread
The inner and outer halves of the tread have different patterns. The outer edge has larger tread blocks for dry cornering grip, while the inner edge has more grooves for water evacuation. These tyres must be mounted with the correct side facing outward (marked "OUTSIDE" on the sidewall).
Characteristics:
- Excellent balance of dry and wet grip
- Good high-speed stability
- Slightly noisier than symmetrical
- Most UHP and performance tyres use this pattern
- Can be rotated front-to-back (but not side-to-side)
Best for: Performance cars, sports sedans, enthusiasts who want balanced performance. This is the dominant pattern on premium tyres sold in Malaysia.
Directional (V-Pattern) Tread
The tread pattern forms a V-shape or arrow pattern that channels water outward from the centre. These tyres must be mounted in the correct rotation direction (indicated by an arrow on the sidewall).
Characteristics:
- Best water evacuation — superior aquaplaning resistance
- Excellent in heavy rain
- Good straight-line stability
- Can only be rotated front-to-back on the same side
- V-pattern creates more road noise at highway speeds
Best for: Drivers who frequently encounter heavy rain. Very relevant for Malaysian monsoon season when standing water on highways is a serious safety concern.
Tyre Ratings and Standards
UTQG Ratings (Uniform Tyre Quality Grading)
UTQG is a rating system developed by the US Department of Transportation that rates tyres on three factors:
Treadwear Rating: A comparative number indicating expected tyre life. A tyre rated 400 should last twice as long as one rated 200 under the same conditions. However, the baseline is set by each manufacturer, so cross-brand comparisons are unreliable. Within the same brand, the number is a useful guide.
- 100-200: Track/UHP tyres (very soft, high grip, short life)
- 300-500: Performance road tyres (good grip, moderate life)
- 500-700: Touring/comfort tyres (moderate grip, long life)
- 700+: Economy/eco tyres (lower grip, maximum life)
Traction Rating: Measures grip on wet pavement during braking.
- AA: Best — stops shortest on wet roads
- A: Good
- B: Acceptable
- C: Marginal
Temperature Rating: Measures the tyre's ability to dissipate heat at speed.
- A: Can withstand speeds above 185 km/h
- B: Can withstand speeds of 160-185 km/h
- C: Can withstand speeds of 130-160 km/h
EU Tyre Label
The EU tyre label rates tyres on fuel efficiency (rolling resistance), wet grip, and external noise. While Malaysia does not mandate this label, many premium tyres sold here carry it.
- Fuel efficiency: A (best) to E (worst) — the difference between A and E is roughly 7.5% in fuel consumption
- Wet grip: A (best) to E (worst) — the difference between A and E is roughly 18 metres of braking distance at 80km/h
- Noise: Measured in decibels (dB) — lower is quieter
When to Replace Your Tyres
Tread Depth
New tyres typically have 7-8mm of tread depth. The legal minimum in Malaysia is 1.6mm, indicated by tread wear indicators (TWI) — small raised bars in the tread grooves. However, 1.6mm is dangerously low for Malaysian conditions where heavy rain is common.
Recommended replacement thresholds:
- 3mm: Replace for optimal wet-weather safety
- 2mm: Replace immediately — significantly reduced wet grip
- 1.6mm: Legal minimum — barely any wet-weather grip remains
At 1.6mm tread depth, a tyre's wet braking distance is roughly 50% longer than the same tyre at 3mm. In monsoon conditions, this difference can mean the difference between stopping safely and a collision.
Age
Even tyres with plenty of tread depth should be replaced after 5-6 years, regardless of how much tread remains. Rubber compounds degrade over time through oxidation, UV exposure, and heat cycling. Malaysia's intense UV radiation and high ambient temperatures accelerate this ageing process.
You can check your tyre's age from the DOT code on the sidewall. The last four digits indicate the week and year of manufacture. For example, "2523" means the tyre was made in week 25 of 2023.
Warning signs of aged tyres:
- Visible cracking on the sidewall (dry rot)
- Rubber feels hard and inflexible
- Tread blocks have small cracks between them
- Vibration at highway speeds that wasn't there before
Damage
Replace immediately if you notice:
- Bulges or bubbles on the sidewall (internal structural failure — blowout risk)
- Cuts or gashes exposing the cords beneath the rubber
- Uneven wear across the tread surface (also indicates alignment or suspension issues)
- Persistent slow leaks that keep coming back after repair
Tyre Pressure
Why Correct Pressure Matters
Tyre pressure affects every aspect of tyre performance:
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Under-inflation: The tyre flexes more, generating excessive heat. This causes the outer edges of the tread to wear faster, increases rolling resistance (worse fuel economy), reduces cornering stability, and dramatically increases the risk of blowouts. Under-inflated tyres are the single most common cause of tyre failure.
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Over-inflation: The tyre rides on the centre of the tread only, reducing the contact patch. This causes the centre of the tread to wear faster, reduces grip (less rubber touching the road), and makes the ride harsh. The tyre is also more susceptible to impact damage from potholes — very relevant on Malaysian roads.
Finding the Right Pressure
The correct tyre pressure for your car is printed on a sticker on the driver's door jamb or inside the fuel filler door. It is NOT the number printed on the tyre sidewall — that is the maximum pressure the tyre can handle, not the recommended pressure.
Typical recommended pressures:
- Compact cars: 30-32 PSI (2.0-2.2 bar)
- Sedans: 32-35 PSI (2.2-2.4 bar)
- SUVs: 33-38 PSI (2.3-2.6 bar)
- Performance cars: 33-40 PSI (2.3-2.8 bar)
Pressure Checking Tips
- Check pressure when tyres are cold (before driving or after sitting for 3+ hours). Driving heats the tyres and raises pressure by 3-5 PSI, giving a false reading.
- Check at least once a month — tyres naturally lose 1-2 PSI per month
- Check before long highway drives
- In Malaysia's heat, tyre pressure rises more than in temperate climates. If you set pressure in the cool of the morning, it may read 3-6 PSI higher after a highway run in afternoon heat. This is normal and accounted for in the manufacturer's recommended pressure.
Tyre Brands by Tier
Premium Tier (RM 400-2,500+ per tyre)
These manufacturers invest heavily in R&D, motorsport programmes, and OEM partnerships with car manufacturers. Their tyres consistently perform best in independent tests and offer the latest compound and construction technology.
- Michelin — Consistently top-rated in independent tests. The Pilot Sport 4S/5 is the benchmark performance tyre. Known for excellent wet grip, longevity, and balanced performance. French brand with a massive R&D budget.
- Continental — German engineering focus. SportContact 7 is one of the best UHP tyres available. PremiumContact range is excellent for comfort-oriented driving. Strong OEM presence on European cars.
- Bridgestone — World's largest tyre manufacturer (by revenue). Potenza Sport is their UHP flagship. Turanza range for touring comfort. Strong OEM partnerships with many Japanese and European manufacturers.
- Pirelli — Italian brand synonymous with performance. P Zero is their iconic UHP tyre. Sole supplier for Formula 1. Known for aggressive performance at the expense of ride comfort and noise.
- Goodyear — American heritage brand with strong European operations. Eagle F1 range competes directly with Michelin and Continental. Good balance of performance and value.
Mid Tier (RM 200-800 per tyre)
Good quality tyres that offer 80-90% of premium performance at 50-70% of the price. Excellent value for most drivers.
- Yokohama — Japanese manufacturer with strong motorsport heritage. Advan range is genuinely excellent. BluEarth range is good for eco-touring. Often overlooked but very competitive.
- Toyo — Japanese brand with a strong following in the aftermarket scene. Proxes Sport is a capable UHP tyre. Good value for performance-oriented drivers.
- Hankook — South Korean manufacturer that has rapidly improved quality. Ventus S1 evo 3 is competitive with premium UHP tyres at a lower price. OEM supplier for many European manufacturers.
- Falken — Owned by Sumitomo. Azenis FK520 is excellent value. Good motorsport pedigree. Consistently solid performance in tests.
- Kumho — South Korean brand offering very competitive pricing. Ecsta PS71 is a solid mid-range performance tyre. Good for budget-conscious enthusiasts.
- Dunlop — Owned by Goodyear. Sport Maxx range is decent for performance driving. Good availability in Malaysia.
Budget Tier (RM 100-400 per tyre)
Functional tyres that meet safety standards but use older compound technology and simpler construction. Acceptable for low-mileage daily driving but noticeably worse in emergency situations (wet braking, evasive manoeuvres).
- Westlake — Chinese manufacturer with massive volume. SA37 is their performance tyre. Acceptable for daily driving, but wet grip and braking distances are measurably worse than mid-tier options.
- Federal — Taiwanese brand with motorsport involvement. 595 RS-RR is a popular budget semi-slick. 595 RPM is a decent road tyre.
- Nankang — Taiwanese brand. NS-25 and AR-1 (semi-slick) are their standout tyres. Good budget options.
- Achilles — Indonesian brand. ATR Sport 2 is popular in Southeast Asia. Basic performance at a low price.
- Silverstone — Malaysian brand (not related to the UK circuit). Budget-focused with decent availability locally.
Which Tier Should You Buy?
| Driving Profile | Recommended Tier | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Daily commute, low speed | Budget or mid | Adequate for normal driving |
| Highway cruising | Mid | Better noise, comfort, and safety at speed |
| Spirited driving | Mid or premium | Grip matters when you push the car |
| Performance car owner | Premium | These cars deserve tyres that match their capability |
| Track days | Premium UHP or semi-slick | Safety and performance demand the best |
| Rainy commute | Mid or premium | Wet grip is where premium tyres shine most |
The cost argument for premium tyres: A set of four premium tyres might cost RM 1,000-2,000 more than budget tyres. Over 40,000-60,000 km of use, that is RM 0.02-0.05 per kilometre — a negligible cost compared to fuel, insurance, and servicing. But those premium tyres could save your life in a single emergency braking situation on a wet highway. Wet braking distance differences between premium and budget tyres can be 5-15 metres at highway speed — that is a massive safety margin.
Tyre Care and Maintenance
Rotation
Rotating tyres (swapping positions) ensures even wear across all four tyres. Front tyres on front-wheel-drive cars wear faster because they handle both steering and driving forces.
Rotation interval: Every 10,000-12,000 km or at every other oil change
Rotation patterns:
- Non-directional tyres: Cross-pattern (front-left to rear-right, front-right to rear-left)
- Directional tyres: Front-to-back only (same side)
- Staggered setup (different front/rear sizes): Cannot be rotated. Tyres stay on their axle.
Alignment
Wheel alignment ensures all four wheels point in the correct direction. Misalignment causes uneven tyre wear, pulling to one side, and reduced fuel economy.
Check alignment:
- Every 10,000-15,000 km
- After hitting a large pothole or kerb
- If the car pulls to one side
- When fitting new tyres
- After any suspension work
Cost: RM 60-150 for a four-wheel alignment at most tyre shops in Malaysia
Balancing
Wheel balancing ensures the weight is evenly distributed around each wheel-tyre assembly. Imbalanced wheels cause vibrations at certain speeds (usually 80-120 km/h), uneven wear, and accelerated suspension wear.
Balance wheels:
- Whenever new tyres are fitted
- If you feel vibration at highway speed
- After any tyre repair
- Every 10,000-15,000 km as a preventive measure
Cost: RM 10-30 per wheel
Storage (for track tyres)
If you have a second set of tyres for track use:
- Store in a cool, dry, dark place
- Keep away from direct sunlight and heat sources
- Store upright (standing) rather than stacked flat
- Keep at normal inflation pressure
- Cover with tyre bags to prevent UV degradation
- Avoid storing near electric motors or chemicals that produce ozone
Malaysian Climate Considerations
Malaysia's tropical climate presents specific challenges for tyres:
Heat
Average ambient temperatures of 27-35°C mean tyres are always operating at the warmer end of their design range. This accelerates rubber degradation, increases tyre pressure during driving, and means summer-compound tyres are always in their optimal window.
Practical tip: Park in shade whenever possible. Prolonged UV exposure and extreme surface heat (car park tarmac can reach 60-70°C) accelerates tyre ageing from the outside.
Monsoon Rain
Malaysia receives 2,000-3,000mm of rainfall annually, with the monsoon seasons (November-March on the east coast, April-May on the west coast) bringing intense downpours. Standing water on highways is common and aquaplaning is a real danger.
Practical tip: Maintain at least 3mm of tread depth for monsoon safety. Consider directional (V-pattern) tyres if you frequently drive in heavy rain. Never use semi-slick or track tyres on public roads during monsoon season.
Road Surfaces
Malaysian roads range from excellent (new highways) to challenging (potholed rural roads, construction zones, unpaved shoulders). Potholes are the number one cause of tyre damage in Malaysia.
Practical tip: Avoid ultra-low-profile tyres (35 series or lower) unless you stick to well-maintained highways. The lack of sidewall cushion makes impact damage from potholes much more likely. A 40 or 45 series tyre offers a good balance of looks, handling, and pothole resistance.
FAQ
How often should I replace my tyres?
Replace when tread depth reaches 3mm for optimal wet-weather safety, or at 1.6mm (legal minimum). Regardless of tread, replace tyres older than 5-6 years. In Malaysian conditions with year-round heat and UV exposure, tyre ageing is faster than in temperate climates.
Can I mix different tyre brands on my car?
You should always have matching tyres on the same axle (both fronts the same, both rears the same). Ideally all four should match. Mixing brands across axles is acceptable but not ideal — different compounds and constructions can subtly affect handling balance. Never mix different tyre types (e.g., summer and all-season) on the same car.
Should I buy run-flat tyres or standard tyres?
If your car came with run-flats and you value the convenience of no spare tyre, stay with run-flats. If you prioritise ride comfort, tyre selection, and lower cost, switch to standard tyres — but carry a spare or tyre repair kit. Many BMW owners in Malaysia switch to standard tyres for the significant ride quality improvement.
Do I need nitrogen instead of regular air?
Nitrogen filling (RM 5-10 per tyre) offers marginally more stable pressure because nitrogen molecules are larger and permeate through rubber slightly slower than oxygen. However, the difference is very small for daily driving. Regular air (which is already 78% nitrogen) is perfectly fine for road use. Nitrogen is more beneficial for track use where consistent pressure is critical.
What causes uneven tyre wear?
The most common causes are: incorrect tyre pressure (over or under-inflation), misaligned wheels, worn suspension components (bushings, ball joints, shocks), and aggressive driving style. If you notice uneven wear, get an alignment check and suspension inspection before fitting new tyres — otherwise the new tyres will wear unevenly too.
Are expensive tyres worth the money?
Yes, particularly for wet-weather safety. Independent tests consistently show that premium tyres stop 5-15 metres shorter than budget tyres in wet braking from 80km/h. On a wet Malaysian highway, that difference is enormous. Premium tyres also typically last longer, are quieter, and provide better fuel economy — partially offsetting the higher purchase price.
How do I know if my tyre pressure monitoring system (TPMS) is working?
Most cars with TPMS will show a warning light on the dashboard if a tyre drops below the threshold (usually 25% below recommended pressure). If your TPMS light comes on, check all four tyres immediately — do not assume it is a sensor fault. TPMS sensors have batteries that last 5-10 years and may need replacement on older cars.
Can a punctured tyre be repaired?
Punctures in the tread area (the flat part that contacts the road) can usually be repaired with a plug-patch from the inside. Punctures in the sidewall cannot be safely repaired and the tyre must be replaced. Run-flat tyres that have been driven on while flat may have internal damage that makes repair unsafe — always have a tyre specialist inspect before attempting repair.