Roll Cages and Safety Equipment: The Complete Guide for Track Cars | Mod Monster

If you are building a track car or getting serious about motorsport, safety equipment is not optional — it is the foundation that everything else is built on. A fast car means nothing if you cannot walk away from a crash. Yet safety equipment is one of the most misunderstood areas of car modification, with dangerous myths, cheaply made products, and confusing regulations making it difficult to know what you actually need.

This guide covers everything from your first roll bar purchase to full FIA-compliant race car preparation. We will explain the engineering behind each piece of equipment, the materials and standards that matter, and how to make smart decisions based on your actual usage — whether that is occasional track days at Sepang or full competitive motorsport.

When Do You Need a Roll Cage?

Not every track car needs a roll cage. Understanding when a cage is necessary versus when it is overkill helps you make the right decision.

You Probably Need a Roll Cage If:

You are competing in any sanctioned motorsport series (most require it)
Your car produces over 300hp and you are doing regular track days
You are building a dedicated track car that will see aggressive use
The regulations for your race series specifically mandate it
You are participating in time attack or endurance racing

A Roll Bar May Be Sufficient If:

You are doing occasional track days at moderate pace
Your car is primarily a road car with occasional track use
You want some rollover protection without the full commitment of a cage
Your race series allows roll bars instead of full cages

You Probably Do Not Need Either If:

You are attending your first few track days and driving at 70-80% pace
Your car is stock or lightly modified
You are doing autocross or low-speed events
The track day organiser does not require it

The key consideration: A roll cage is a serious modification that fundamentally changes the car. It adds weight, reduces practicality, may require removing interior trim, and in some configurations makes the car less safe for road use (your head can strike an unpadded tube in a minor accident). Only install one if you genuinely need it.

Roll Bar vs Roll Cage: What Is the Difference?

Roll Bar (Half Cage)

A roll bar is a single hoop or structure that sits behind the front seats, typically bolting or welding to the floor and chassis rails. It provides rollover protection for the cabin area without extending into the passenger compartment.

Components of a typical roll bar:

Main hoop behind the seats (inverted U-shape)
Diagonal brace (runs from one side of the hoop to the opposite lower mount)
Backstays (tubes running from the top of the hoop rearward to the chassis)

Advantages:

Relatively affordable (RM2,000-RM6,000+ depending on material and complexity)
Retains rear seats (in some configurations)
Less intrusive than a full cage
Can be a bolt-in installation (easier to remove)
Does not significantly affect the car's road manners

Disadvantages:

Limited protection compared to a full cage
Does not protect the front occupants in a side impact
Does not meet most racing series requirements
Bolt-in versions are weaker than weld-in

Roll Cage (Full Cage)

A full roll cage consists of multiple interconnected tubes that form a protective structure throughout the entire passenger compartment — typically including a main hoop, a front hoop (around the windscreen pillars), door bars, a roof diagonal, and backstays.

Components of a typical full cage:

Main hoop (behind the seats)
Front hoop (follows the A-pillars, across the roof, and connects to the main hoop)
Door bars (typically two bars per side, X-pattern or diagonal)
Roof diagonal (connects opposite corners of the roof section)
Backstays (from main hoop to rear chassis)
Harness bar (horizontal bar for mounting racing harnesses)
Optional: dash bar, A-pillar gussets, window nets mounts

Advantages:

Maximum occupant protection in rollover, side impact, and frontal impact
Required for most competitive motorsport
Significantly stiffens the chassis (which can improve handling)
Multiple mounting points for harnesses, fire systems, nets, etc.

Disadvantages:

Expensive (RM5,000-RM20,000+ depending on material and fabrication quality)
Adds significant weight (30-60kg typically)
Eliminates rear seats
Requires extensive interior removal
Makes the car impractical for daily road use
Must be properly padded for road use (exposed tubes near your head are dangerous)
Professional installation is essential — a badly built cage is worse than no cage

Bolt-In vs Weld-In

Bolt-In Roll Bars and Cages

Bolt-in units attach to the car using bolts and mounting plates that connect to the floor, chassis rails, or structural reinforcement plates.

Advantages:

Removable — the car can be returned to stock
No permanent modification to the car
Can be a DIY installation (with proper tools and knowledge)
Lower installation cost

Disadvantages:

Weaker than weld-in (the bolted joints are the weak points)
May not meet competition requirements (many series require weld-in)
Mounting plates can crack or bend under extreme loads
Requires periodic inspection of bolt torque

Best for: Road cars with occasional track use, cars you want to keep reversible, non-competitive track days.

Weld-In Roll Bars and Cages

Weld-in units are permanently welded to the car's chassis and structural members. The tubes are TIG or MIG welded to mounting plates that are in turn welded to the floor and chassis.

Advantages:

Significantly stronger than bolt-in
No movement or flex at mounting points
Meets competition requirements
Distributes load more evenly into the chassis

Disadvantages:

Permanent modification — cannot be easily removed
Requires professional welding (bad welds can be catastrophically weak)
Higher installation cost (RM1,500-RM5,000+ for welding alone)
May void manufacturer warranty on the chassis

Best for: Dedicated track cars, competition vehicles, cars where maximum safety is the priority.

Materials: What Your Cage Should Be Made Of

The material of your roll cage is critically important. Not all steel is the same, and the wrong material can fail catastrophically when you need it most.

CDS (Cold Drawn Seamless) Mild Steel

CDS is the most common material for roll cages. The tubes are formed from a solid billet and drawn through a die — there is no weld seam running along the tube.

Properties:

Good strength-to-weight ratio for the price
Easy to weld (forgiving of technique)
Easy to bend without cracking
Readily available and affordable
FIA approved for competition use

Typical specification: ERW (Electric Resistance Welded) or CDS, 1.75" (44.45mm) OD x 2.0mm wall thickness is the FIA minimum for most applications.

Cost: A CDS roll cage kit typically costs RM3,000-RM8,000 depending on complexity.

DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) Steel

DOM is a step up from standard ERW tube. The tube starts as ERW (welded seam) but is then drawn over a mandrel, which works the seam and produces a more uniform wall thickness and smoother interior.

Properties:

More consistent wall thickness than ERW
Stronger and more predictable than basic seamed tube
Still easy to weld
Widely available

Note: In some markets, DOM and CDS are used interchangeably. The key difference is manufacturing process — CDS is truly seamless from the start; DOM starts as seamed and is refined.

T45 Steel

T45 is a high-strength aerospace-grade steel alloy that is the standard for professional motorsport roll cages.

Properties:

Approximately 40% stronger than CDS for the same weight
Allows thinner wall tubes, saving weight
FIA approved and preferred for high-level competition
More expensive than CDS

Welding consideration: T45 requires precise TIG welding and must be normalised (heat-treated) after welding to restore the material properties in the heat-affected zone. A bad weld on T45 can create a brittle point that fails under load. This is why T45 cages must be built by experienced fabricators.

Cost: T45 cage kits are typically 30-50% more expensive than CDS equivalents. Professional fabrication adds to the cost due to the welding expertise required.

Chromoly (4130 Chrome-Molybdenum Steel)

Chromoly is another high-strength steel alloy used in roll cages, particularly popular in American motorsport.

Properties:

Excellent strength-to-weight ratio
Lighter than CDS for equivalent strength
Can be heat treated for additional strength
FIA approved

Welding consideration: Like T45, chromoly requires careful TIG welding and heat treatment. It is more sensitive to welding technique than mild steel. Improperly welded chromoly can be more dangerous than properly welded CDS.

Cost: Similar to T45 — premium pricing for both material and fabrication.

What to Avoid

ERW (Electric Resistance Welded) tube without further processing: Basic ERW tube has a weld seam that runs the length of the tube. This seam is a potential weak point, especially under bending loads. For a simple roll bar, ERW may be acceptable, but for a full cage that may see severe impacts, CDS or DOM is strongly preferred.

Aluminium: While lighter than steel, aluminium absorbs energy by cracking and shattering rather than bending. A steel cage deforms progressively, absorbing energy over time. An aluminium cage can fail suddenly. Aluminium is not FIA-approved for roll cages. Do not use it.

Stainless steel: Looks great, but it is significantly heavier than mild steel for equivalent strength, and its fatigue properties make it unsuitable for safety structures. Not FIA approved for cages.

FIA Regulations

If you are competing in any FIA-sanctioned event or a series that follows FIA regulations, your roll cage must comply with specific standards.

Key FIA Requirements (Summary)

Material: CDS, T45, or other FIA-approved steel alloys. Minimum specifications are defined in FIA Article 253.

Tube dimensions (minimum for most categories):

Main hoop and front hoop: 38mm x 2.5mm or 40mm x 2.0mm (cold drawn seamless)
For T45: 38mm x 2.0mm or smaller depending on the specific regulation
Door bars and bracing: Similar or slightly smaller specifications allowed

Design requirements:

Main hoop must be one continuous piece of tube (no joints at the top)
Front hoop must follow the A-pillars
Minimum of two door bars per side
Roof diagonal connecting opposite corners
Backstays from the main hoop to the rear of the car
All joints must be gusseted or plated as specified

Documentation:

The cage must come with a material certificate proving the steel specification
For competition, the cage often needs to be inspected and certified
FIA homologated cages (from approved manufacturers) simplify the approval process

Certification plates: FIA homologated cages come with a certification plate that includes the manufacturer, material, date of manufacture, and the FIA standard it meets. This plate must remain attached to the cage.

FIA Homologated vs Custom

FIA homologated cages are designed and manufactured by approved companies to FIA specifications for specific car models. They come with all necessary documentation and are pre-approved for competition.

Custom cages can be built to FIA specifications by qualified fabricators, but they need to be individually inspected and certified. This process varies by series and country.

For Malaysian motorsport: Check with the organising body (e.g., Motorsports Association of Malaysia / MAM) for specific requirements for your intended series.

Racing Harnesses

A racing harness holds you firmly in place during high-G manoeuvres and impacts. Unlike a standard 3-point seatbelt, a harness distributes the load across your shoulders, chest, and hips, keeping you locked in position.

Types of Harnesses

4-Point Harness:

Two shoulder straps, two lap straps
The most basic racing harness
Adequate for track days and some lower-level competition
Can allow the body to "submarine" (slide under the lap belt) in a severe frontal impact — this is why 5 and 6-point are preferred

5-Point Harness:

Two shoulder straps, two lap straps, one crotch strap (anti-submarine)
The anti-submarine strap prevents the body from sliding under the lap belt in a frontal impact
Standard for most competition use
The most common choice for serious track cars

6-Point Harness:

Two shoulder straps, two lap straps, two crotch straps
Maximum restraint
Required in some higher-level racing series
Slightly more complex to adjust but provides the most secure hold

Harness Width

3-inch (75mm) shoulder straps are the FIA standard and most common
2-inch straps are available but offer less load distribution
Lap and crotch straps are typically 2-inch or 3-inch

FIA Certification and Expiry

Critical: FIA-certified harnesses have an expiry date. FIA 8853-2016 harnesses are valid for 5 years from the date of manufacture. After this period, the webbing material may have degraded and the harness should be replaced.

Check the label on your harness for the manufacturing date
Expired harnesses should not be used for competition (and ideally not for track days either)
Do not wash harness webbing in washing machines or use harsh chemicals — this degrades the material
Replace any harness that has been involved in an impact

Harness Installation

Mounting points matter enormously. A harness is only as strong as its mounting.

Shoulder straps:

Must be mounted to a harness bar or roll cage at the correct height — the straps should leave your shoulders at a slight downward angle (0 to 20 degrees below horizontal)
If the shoulder straps are mounted too low, they will compress your spine in a frontal impact
If mounted too high, they can slip off your shoulders

Lap straps:

Must be mounted to the floor or chassis at or near the seat mounting points
Angle should be approximately 60-80 degrees relative to horizontal
Must pull symmetrically (both sides equal)

Anti-submarine strap:

Mounted to the floor between the seat and the steering column
Must be tight enough to prevent forward movement of the hips

Never mount harness straps to:

The seat frame (unless it is an FIA-approved racing seat with harness slots)
Flimsy sheet metal without reinforcement plates
Points that will tear out under load

HANS Device (Head and Neck Support)

The HANS device (and similar head restraint systems like the Simpson Hybrid or Schroth SHR) is one of the most important safety innovations in motorsport. It prevents basilar skull fractures — the injury that killed Dale Earnhardt and many others before the device became mandatory.

How It Works

The HANS device is a collar that sits on your shoulders under the harness straps. It connects to the helmet via two tethers. In a frontal impact, the harness holds your body, and the HANS device restrains your head from snapping forward — the tethers absorb the load, preventing the violent head/neck separation that causes basilar skull fractures.

When You Need One

Mandatory in most sanctioned motorsport from karting up
Highly recommended for any serious track use, especially in cars capable of high speeds
Not necessary for casual track days at moderate pace (but never a bad idea)

Types

HANS Professional/Sport: The original carbon fibre HANS device. Lightweight and effective. Prices range from RM3,000-RM8,000.
Simpson Hybrid: A hybrid device that combines a HANS-type restraint with an integrated harness system. Popular in some racing categories.
Schroth SHR (SAFE HEAD Restraint): An integrated head restraint system built into the harness itself.

FIA Certification

HANS devices and alternatives must be FIA 8858-2010 certified for competition use. Like harnesses, they have a service life — check manufacturer guidelines.

Fire Extinguishers and Suppression Systems

Fire is one of the most dangerous situations in motorsport. Fuel, oil, brake fluid, and electrical systems can all cause fires, and in a confined cockpit with a harness holding you in place, seconds matter.

Handheld Fire Extinguishers

For track days and non-competitive use, a handheld extinguisher mounted within reach of the driver is the minimum standard.

Specifications:

Minimum 1kg capacity (2kg preferred)
Dry powder (ABC type) or AFFF foam
Mounted securely with a quick-release bracket — a loose extinguisher becomes a projectile in a crash
Must be within arm's reach of the driver while strapped in
Check the expiry date and pressure gauge regularly

Cost: RM80-RM300 for a quality automotive fire extinguisher with mounting bracket.

Mounting location: On the passenger footwell, on the transmission tunnel, or on the roll cage within arm's reach. Never behind the seat or in the boot — you cannot reach it when you need it.

Plumbed-In Fire Suppression Systems

For competition use, a plumbed-in fire suppression system is typically required. These systems have nozzles positioned in the engine bay and cockpit that can be activated by a pull cable or electrical switch.

Types:

AFFF (Aqueous Film Forming Foam): Effective on fuel fires. FIA approved.
Novec 1230 / FE-36: Clean agent systems that leave no residue. Ideal for electrical fires. FIA approved.

FIA requirement: Most racing categories require a plumbed-in system with both mechanical and electrical activation. The system must have nozzles in the engine bay and cockpit.

Cost: RM2,000-RM8,000+ depending on system type and complexity. Professional installation adds RM500-RM1,500.

Kill Switches (Circuit Breakers)

A kill switch (master circuit breaker) cuts all electrical power to the car. This is critical in an accident because:

It stops the fuel pump, reducing fire risk
It prevents electrical short circuits from starting fires
It makes the car safe for marshals to approach

Requirements

Must be accessible from both inside and outside the vehicle
External switch is typically mounted on the left side of the rear bumper or near the rear window
Must be clearly marked with a red spark symbol on a blue triangle
Must cut the battery, alternator, and all electrical circuits

Installation

Use an FIA-approved battery master switch rated for your car's electrical load
Wire it between the battery and the main fuse box
Ensure it kills the engine when activated (ignition, fuel pump, ECU)
Test it regularly

Cost: RM200-RM800 for the switch and installation, depending on the type and wiring complexity.

Window Nets

Window nets prevent your arms from extending outside the car during a rollover or side impact. They also keep debris out of the cockpit.

Types:

Ribbon nets: Woven nylon ribbon in a mesh pattern. The most common type.
String nets: Thinner cord in a mesh. Lighter but less protective.

Installation: One side attaches to the roll cage, the other side attaches to a quick-release mechanism that allows the driver to drop the net for entry/exit and for marshals to access the cockpit.

When required: Most racing series require window nets. For track days, they are typically not required but are a worthwhile safety addition.

Cost: RM200-RM600 per side.

Racing Suits

A racing suit provides fire protection and, in some designs, impact protection. For casual track days, normal clothing is typically acceptable. For competition, a certified suit is mandatory.

Fire-Resistant Materials

Racing suits are made from Nomex or similar fire-resistant materials that self-extinguish when the flame source is removed. The rating indicates how long the suit protects you:

SFI 3.2A/1: Single layer, approximately 3 seconds of protection
SFI 3.2A/5: Multi-layer, approximately 10 seconds of protection
FIA 8856-2018: The current FIA standard, providing a minimum of 11 seconds of protection

Layers

Single-layer suits: Lighter, cooler (important in Malaysian heat), but less protection. Adequate for track days.
Multi-layer suits (2 or 3 layers): More protection but significantly hotter. Required for most competitive motorsport.

Sizing and Fit

A racing suit should fit close to the body without being restrictive. You should be able to reach the steering wheel, operate all controls, and turn your head freely. Try the suit on while sitting in a driving position before purchasing.

Accessories

Fireproof underwear (base layer): Worn under the suit for additional protection. FIA 8856-2018 certified options available.
Fireproof gloves: Protect your hands and improve grip. FIA 8856 certified.
Fireproof shoes/boots: Racing shoes with fire-resistant construction and thin soles for pedal feel.
Fireproof balaclava: Worn under the helmet to protect the neck and face.

Cost in Malaysia:

Entry-level FIA-certified suit: RM1,500-RM3,500
Mid-range suit: RM3,500-RM7,000
Premium custom suit: RM7,000-RM15,000+
Fireproof underwear set: RM300-RM800
Gloves: RM200-RM600
Shoes: RM400-RM1,200
Balaclava: RM100-RM300

Helmets

Your helmet is arguably the single most important piece of safety equipment. It protects your brain. There is no modification, no car part, no performance upgrade more important than your head protection.

Helmet Standards

Snell Foundation Standards:

Snell SA2020: The current Snell standard for automotive use. "SA" means "Special Application" — designed for motorsport with fire resistance, wider eye port for racing visibility, and tested for multiple impacts.
Snell M2020: Motorcycle standard. Similar impact protection but lacks fire resistance and the wider eye port. NOT recommended for car racing.
Snell SA2015: Previous generation. Still accepted at many track days but no longer current.

FIA Standards:

FIA 8859-2015: The current FIA standard for helmets. Tested to rigorous standards including penetration, fire resistance, and visor quality. Required for most FIA-sanctioned events.
FIA 8860-2018: Advanced helmet standard for higher levels of motorsport. Includes more stringent impact tests.

Key distinction: The "SA" (Special Application) designation is what separates automotive helmets from motorcycle helmets. SA helmets are designed for:

Fire resistance (Nomex lining)
Rollover protection (stronger shell at the top)
HANS compatibility (anchor points at the back)
Wider eye port for racing visibility

Open Face vs Full Face

Full face helmets provide the most protection and are required in most competitive motorsport. They protect the chin and jaw, which are vulnerable in frontal impacts.
Open face helmets are lighter, cooler (significant advantage in Malaysian heat), and provide better peripheral vision. Acceptable for some track days but not for competition.

Our recommendation: Always use a full face helmet. The chin and jaw protection is worth the slight weight and heat penalty. In Malaysia's climate, look for helmets with good ventilation and consider a helmet fan system for endurance events.

Sizing

A helmet must fit snugly. It should not move when you shake your head vigorously, but it should not create pressure points or headaches. The helmet should sit level on your head with the chin bar close to your chin.

How to check fit:

Measure your head circumference at the widest point (above the eyebrows)
Try on helmets in your size
The helmet should feel tight initially (the liner will compress slightly with use)
Put the helmet on, close the visor, and try to rotate the helmet by grabbing the chin bar — it should not move independently of your head
Wear it for 10-15 minutes to check for comfort and pressure points

Helmet Maintenance

Do not drop your helmet. Even a drop from table height can compromise the protective liner.
Replace after any impact — even if there is no visible damage, the internal foam may be crushed.
Replace every 5-7 years regardless of use (the foam degrades over time).
Clean the interior with mild soap and water. Do not use harsh chemicals.
Store in a helmet bag, away from direct sunlight and heat.

HANS Compatibility

If you use a HANS device, ensure your helmet has HANS anchor posts (small clips at the back of the helmet where the tethers attach). Most modern SA-rated helmets come with HANS posts or have them as an option.

Cost in Malaysia:

Entry-level Snell SA2020 helmet: RM1,000-RM2,500
Mid-range helmet: RM2,500-RM5,000
Premium carbon fibre helmet: RM5,000-RM15,000+

Daily Driver Considerations

If your car is both a daily driver and an occasional track car, safety equipment decisions become more nuanced.

Roll Bar Padding

This is critically important. If you have a roll bar or roll cage and also drive the car on public roads, every tube within head-strike distance must be padded with FIA-approved roll cage padding.

Why: In a minor road accident (a rear-ending at traffic lights, for example), your head can impact an unpadded steel tube. A stock car has an airbag and soft interior trim to protect you. A car with a cage has a steel tube six inches from your head. Without padding, a minor accident that would normally give you whiplash can give you a skull fracture.

FIA-approved padding is designed to absorb impact energy. It is made of high-density closed-cell foam and is typically 50-75mm thick. Cheap pipe insulation from the hardware store is NOT adequate — it compresses instantly and provides almost no protection.

Cost: RM50-RM150 per section. Budget for full coverage of all head-strike-zone tubes.

Harness vs Seatbelt for Road Use

For road driving, the factory 3-point seatbelt is actually more appropriate than a racing harness in most situations.

Why:

A harness holds you rigidly upright, which means your head can whip forward more violently in a frontal impact (unless you have a HANS device)
The factory seatbelt is designed to work with the car's airbag system
A harness without a HANS device can increase the risk of head and neck injury in a frontal impact
Harnesses are uncomfortable for normal road driving (tight, restrictive)

Best practice for dual-use cars: Keep the factory seatbelts installed (it is also a legal requirement). Install harnesses for track use. Use seatbelts on the road, harnesses on the track.

Removable Safety Equipment

For dual-use cars, consider equipment that can be easily removed or stowed:

Quick-release steering wheel (for easier entry/exit with a cage, but ensure a locking mechanism)
Removable harnesses (quick-release eyebolts)
Stowable window nets
Bolt-in roll bar (if competition rules do not require weld-in)
Quick-release fire extinguisher bracket

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a roll cage for my first track day? No. Most track day organisers in Malaysia do not require a roll cage for entry-level sessions. Focus on a good helmet, proper seating position, and learning technique. Add safety equipment as your speed and commitment increase.

Is a cheap roll cage better than no roll cage? Not necessarily. A poorly designed, poorly welded cage made from the wrong material can be more dangerous than no cage at all. It can collapse in a crash, the mounting points can tear out, or the tubes can intrude into the cabin space. If you are going to install a cage, invest in a properly engineered one from a reputable fabricator.

Can I build my own roll cage? Technically yes, if you have professional-level TIG welding skills, knowledge of materials science, and access to a proper tube bender. Practically, for most people, the answer is no. A roll cage is a safety-critical structure that must withstand enormous forces. Leave it to experienced cage builders.

How much does a complete roll cage installation cost in Malaysia? For a basic CDS weld-in cage including materials and professional fabrication: RM5,000-RM12,000. A T45 or chromoly cage with FIA certification: RM10,000-RM25,000+. Custom multi-point cages for specific racing series can exceed RM30,000.

Does a roll cage affect my car insurance? It can. A roll cage is a structural modification that should be declared to your insurer. Some insurers view it positively (improved safety), while others may add a loading or exclude it. Always declare and ask before installing.

Can I use a motorcycle helmet for track days? Some casual track day organisers may accept motorcycle helmets, but it is not recommended. Motorcycle helmets (Snell M-rated) lack the fire-resistant lining and are not designed for the same impact patterns as automotive helmets (SA-rated). They also do not have HANS posts. Invest in a proper SA-rated automotive helmet.

How tight should a racing harness be? Tight enough that you cannot move your torso more than 1-2 inches in any direction. The shoulder straps should pin your shoulders firmly to the seat back. The lap belt should be tight across your hip bones (not your stomach). It should be snug but not painful — you need to be able to breathe and operate the controls comfortably. Tighten the harness every time you get in the car — webbing stretches slightly during a session.

What is the difference between a 4-point and 6-point harness in terms of safety? The primary difference is the anti-submarine strap(s). A 4-point harness (two shoulder, two lap) can allow your body to slide forward under the lap belt in a severe frontal impact ("submarining"). A 5-point adds one crotch strap, and a 6-point adds two. The anti-submarine straps prevent this forward movement, keeping your pelvis in position. For any serious track use, a 5 or 6-point harness is strongly recommended.

Should I remove my airbags if I install a roll cage and harness? This depends on use. For a dedicated track/race car, airbags are typically removed (they can deploy unexpectedly and interfere with driving). For a road-legal car, airbags are a legal requirement and provide valuable protection in road accidents. If your car is dual-use, keep the airbags for road driving. If it is track-only, they can be removed (check your racing series regulations).

How often should safety equipment be inspected?

Roll cage welds: Annually by a qualified fabricator (check for cracks, corrosion)
Harnesses: Before every track session (check webbing for fraying, cuts, UV damage); replace every 5 years or after any impact
Helmet: Before every use (check for cracks, loose liner); replace every 5-7 years or after any impact
Fire extinguisher: Check pressure gauge monthly; service/replace per manufacturer guidelines
HANS device: Inspect tethers before each event; replace per manufacturer guidelines